Travel: Bagan, Burma

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Of all the places we were able to visit while travelling through Burma (Myanmar), Bagan has to be the most majestic. That's right, majestic - like a unicorn. This patch of land is nothing short of serene, dotted with golden stupas as far as the eye can see. Small and calm, the only hustle and bustle you'll see here is tourists (local and foreign) temple hopping, and even that is done in a leisurely way often accompanied by a bicycle through the relatively flat area.

The downside to this leg of the trip was that it was cut much too short by a bout of stomach flu that kept a few locked up in the hotel unable to enjoy our unique surroundings, or even the great riverside view.  On that note, it should be made clear that "travellers stomach" is a very common occurrence when travelling through Burma and it can hit people in different ways.  Some will get fully knocked out by it for a day or so and then be fine, others will have low level symptoms the entire trip, and others still may not be affected at all.  If you're travelling through this area (and I highly recommend it!) please do your research and take the appropriate medications so that you can fully enjoy your time away.

Now… back to Bagan! Divided into three main sections; Old Bagan, New Bagan, and Nyaung U, with the North and South Plains spread around them, there is easily enough to see and do fill at least three days. That is, of course, assuming you like to explore a land so filled with temples and stupas that feels almost impossible for your eyes to never be resting on at least one, if not many simultaneously.

During our time here we stayed within the "new" and "old" Bagan areas, and due to funny stomachs, we never made it over to Nyaung U (which just means I have a great reason to return!) We travelled easily around the area on rented bicycles (motor bikes and horse carts are also available) and had the leisure of seeing what we wanted to see when we wanted to see it.

Like all tourist destinations in all corners of the world, Bagan has some "must-see"locations, and while it's easy to see why they are so highly recommended, some of my favourite sites were the smaller venues that we stopped at in passing. We also managed to find a tasty little cafe in the shade that offered us more than one recoup session over the course of a couple days.

To help you with your planning, here are some recommend DO, EAT, and SHOP destinations. I wish I could offer you more, because I really left feeling as though there was just so much more to see and do, but I'll just have to return for myself to fill in the rest. 

DO

• Catch the sunset from the top of a temple! The golden hour in this part of the world provides spectacular views across the temple dotted plain of Bagan. There are options that are close and crowded, or further a field and…. still quite crowded. It's true, for the best views you won't have the place to yourself, but arrive early and you'll be able to snag a good seat. And despite the crowds, the process is quite tranquil. A little further out, but a little less trafficked the Pyathada Paya has an excellent viewing spot with a large flat terrace and plenty of spots to rest your feet. 
• Rent a bike! There are small side of the road rental stands all over the place that offer decent day rates. If you're going around Old Bagan, the plains or even into New Bagan, travelling by bike was a great, scenic way to get it done. 

EAT

• Be Kind to Animals the Moon - despite it's funny name, this charming garden cafe and restaurant is an absolute must! We went three times because the food was good, the drinks were cold, and the atmosphere was relaxed. Their tea leaf salad and ginger lime tea (iced was my favourite) stand out in my memory, but I don't remember getting anything we didn't love, and we got a lot!

SHOP

• Shwe War Thein Handicrafts was one of our only stops on the shopping trail while in Bagan but was a treasure trove of well priced lacquerware and antiques (official papers provided so you don't run into trouble at the airport). It's well off the main road that leads into Old Bagan, but is easily found by well placed signage. If the connection's good, you can even pay with credit card (very rare). 

Have you been to Bagan? Or even Burma? What was your favourite part? I'd love to know!

Until next time, you can catch up on Part 1 of our trip through Burma here.

Oreo Stuffed Vanilla Cupcakes

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There's just three weeks left before I'm boarding a plane to move back to Canada, and the feeling is a little surreal.  Bittersweet is probably the best word to use, but more on that in another post. We're here to talk about cupcakes, and that's just what we are going to do!

These were made for the last day of classes (because that's just how I roll) and they feature a tasty vanilla cake, a surprise oreo in the middle (because why not?), are topped off with cookies and cream frosting, and then more oreo. Decadent is an understatement, but the last day of class deserves a little decadence, no?

The actual cake turned out slightly more dense than I had hoped, but I don't think anyone else noticed - everyone was too busy stuffing their faces with these morsels of goodness, just as they should be. 

The process is as simple as can be and merely involves dolloping a little batter in the bottom of each cupcake liner, tossing a cookie on top and then continuing to fill the cup until about 1/2 from the top. Too easy, right? The reward is unreal and has definitely become an instant classic.

Oreo Stuffed Vanilla Cupcakes with Cookies and Cream Frosting
adapted from Sally's Baking Addiction

Makes approximately 16 - 18 cupcakes

1 and 2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 scant cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
2 egg whites
1/4 cup yogurt
3/4 cup milk
2 teaspoons vanilla extract

For the frosting: After a (very) failed batch of homemade frosting in which I had no butter and no electric mixture, I had to resort to a jar of good ol' Duncan Hines mixed with approximately 10 crushed oreos. 
Directions

1. Preheat oven to 350F degrees. Line muffin tin with cupcake liners and set aside.
2. In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt - set aside for later. 
3. In a large microwave-safe bowl, melt butter in the microwave. Stir in the sugar until fully combined, the mixture will be gritty. 
4. Mix in egg whites, yogurt, milk, and vanilla extract until combined. 
5. Slowly mix dry ingredients into the wet ingredients until there are no lumps - the batter will be quite thick
6. Spoon about 1 Tbsp of batter into each cupcake liner and top with an oreo. Press down gently to help settle the batter and then top with more batter until you are 1/3-1/2 inch from the top of the tin.
7. Bake for 20 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow to cool completely before icing.
8. Enjoy!

Travel: Mandalay, Burma

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Before leaving for Burma (way back in January!) a friend of mine wished me a good trip and said she was looking forward to the accompanying blog post.  She also mentioned there was no rush as she knew I probably wouldn't be able to get to it until April. I felt incredulous at the time - April was so far away! - but looks like she was right, heck it's practically the end of May and I'm just getting to it now. I need to get better at this.

And so, here we are with the first of 4 instalments of our time in Burma over the Chinese New Year holiday.

Mandalay is a big city with a small town feel. Known as the key city to "Upper Burma" Mandalay is a well laid out grid of streets situated at the base of Mandalay Hill along the banks of the Irrawaddy River. Considering the true size of Mandalay (approximately 1.5 million) I was surprised by how sleepy the city felt.  This is a place that knows what a siesta is and takes full advantage of it.

Overall Mandalay wasn't my favourite stop on our little trip, and though there are some good choices in terms of food, touristing and entertainment, if you're tight on time more than 2 days would feel like a waste.

Eat:
The Green Elephant - This is one of those charming garden restaurants that always seems to have a clinking of glasses, tinkling of laughter, and an aroma that draws you in. The Green Elephant serves traditional Burmese food to those looking for a taste of local flavours in a setting that is relaxed and elegant, and it does it well.  I particularly recommend the coconut rice and coupling dinner with one of the  puppet or dance shows, both of which are near by.

Too Too Restaurant - To say this little restaurant is bare bones is a bit of an understatement. Hole in the wall is the term usually given to places like this, but that's usually where some of the best food is to be found and this place certainly didn't disappoint.  Offering local Burmese food, this little place is a great little rest stop on a busy day of touring.  Simply walk in, order from the display of dishes behind the glass, and enjoy. Set prices will include a main, rice, and side dish - extras cost extra (go figure!)

Marie-Min - This cozy little cafe and restaurant sits on the second floor with an open air balcony that looks into a popular thai restaurant across a tight alley, it also happens to be entirely vegetarian (score!). With a fairly extensive menu that will serve anything from tea leaf salad to avocado and coffee milk shakes (all three of which are recommended) we happily passed a couple hours resting our feet and escaping the scorching heat after several hours of touristing.

Visit:
Mandalay Hill - While the barefoot climb to the summit of the 240 meter hill on a series of covered stairways (with plenty of stops and viewpoints on the way) is worth it, you can also travel up by a combination of car and elevator. I personally recommend the walk, but if you're not able the latter option will also reward you with a striking panoroma of the city and access to Sutaungpyei Pagoda. The combination of the view, and the old and new world charms that were visible in the refurbished pagoda are well worth the trip and was a personal highlight for me.

Shwenandaw Kyaung - I could have spend hours looking at this intricately carved teak monastary. Each panel had something to admire and the blend of it all together was nothing short of striking.  Originally built as the royal apartment of King Mindon, it was once taken apart and put back together again just outside the palace walls and converted to a monastary after King Thibaw declared he could no longer stand the ghost of Mindon, who had died inside the apartment in 1878. Though not huge there is plenty to look at, and once inside men are allowed to explore the space that was once used as a bedroom where King Mindon passed.

Mahamuni Paya - One of the neatest, and most jarring, realities of the temples in Burma is that they are still widely used by local people today, which means the  aesthetic has changed over the years to include neon lights and a whole lot of glitz. This is perhaps most evident in Mahamuni Paya where throngs of people still go to visit the 13ft seated Buddha. Again, only men are allowed into the main room that houses buddha, but open air windows allow for view from the outside of the golden statue.  The courtyard and surrounding buildings of this Paya also hold many interesting artifacts to make note of and also offer some solice from the inevitable crowds.

Take a stroll - As I mentioned, Mandalay is a big city with a small town feel and it's worth just taking a walk along the unpaved roads to take in the sights and sounds that greet you. There's plenty to see, but watch out, traffic can get hectic and I only noticed a handful of traffic lights on my journey.

Until next time!

Wide Angle: Vol. 12

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Sometimes I talk like someone with a lot more street cred than I myself possess, so you'll forgive me when I say … it has been hella busy up in here.

There's only 12 teaching days left before exams start, and then only about 5 days after that to get it all marked. Then another week to pack up our life here, 1 week to do some last minute travelling (I cannot leave this country without visiting the Great Wall) and then go HOME! It's so close I can taste the daily salads and free flowing drinkable tap water as I type this, and oh it tastes good!

There's been a lot going on behind the scenes lately too, so let's take a look.

1 and 2: I did one of those things that makes my life sound like a movie. I had a bachelorette party in Singapore. I dressed my nails up like tuxedos for the occasion, I got dressed up and ate fancy food on top of fancy buildings, and (not pictured) I danced my tukus off with 5 great friends until the very, very wee hours of the morning.

3 and 4: I've already written about it here, but I discovered a great fondness for Nepal. Here are two shots from the guesthouse in Kathmandu - one from the street just outside and the other from my room.

5: I made mug cakes for days after this.

6: Sometimes people surprise you with really nice things - like Starbucks and homemade muffins in the shape of Mickey Mouse.

7: Because I just can't seem to sit still, Other Half and I hiked around Tiger Leaping Gorge for a couple of days on a recent long weekend. This was basically the view the entire time. There were many moments of awe.

8: More surprises, this time my favourite colours in my favourite pattern. Love.

9: Wedding planning is fun. Pretty notebooks and lavender coffee make it even better.

10: I've owned many pairs of Converse shoes in my life time (often many at one time), but these new leather ones with fluorescent trim might just be my favourite. I called them my grown up sneakers because they're made of leather - Other Half promptly reminded me that grown ups don't wear fluorescent pink. Hah! I'll show him!

11: This little fella was hanging out at school the other day, his wings are magical.

12: Don't mind me… just going to go on a little over night trip to the beach and call it work. This will be a tough job to leave.

Well, that's me! What's new with you?

Link Love-In: Shifting

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via designlovefest

It was my Birthday yesterday and I turned a scary age. Never in my life have I dreamed of being older. From the time I was 10, I knew I was in the glory days of life.  I was pretty sure there was no better age than the one I was living and I have no single memory of thinking "When I'm older, I'll be able to...." While I've mellowed out (a little bit) about the idea of getting older, I still have a mini freak out each year at the thought of growing up, and gaining more and more responsibilities to carry around (this whole sentence makes me sound like a terrible person, maybe I am). Each year however I realize I never feel different than the day before, and I get over it pretty quickly. But this year feels different. No, I didn't turn 30 or anything like that - I turned the big 2-9. The age every woman claims to be as soon as she is older than that.

This year I'm very conscious of being in the last year of my 20's. Even though I feel very far away from my early 20's (and in many ways happy about it), I can't shake the feeling that it's somehow a big shift. I've never felt 'old' or even very 'mature' and I still don't, but the last couple of days have been hard.

I think we can all agree I just need to take a deep breath, put on my big girl pants and hope it passes like all the years before, yes? Hmmm I'll work on that.

In the mean time, let's take a gander together at some of the great things the world wide web has to offer us!

1. I'm a bit of an environmentalist (like, quite a bit) and while each new solution for issues we create as humans has it's own set of problems, this one out of Harvard is quite interesting. (via PolicyMic)
2. Oh The Hairpin, you appeal to my heavily sarcastic soul so much. Recently they've delighted with Horoscopes from Galactic Rabbits and plots from my childhood fave Goosebumps illustrated from memory. (via The Hairpin)
3. The story of the artist who created a book detailing all possible colour combinations 271 years before Pantone ever existed has been all over the place, if you haven't seen it yet it's an interesting read. (via This is Colossal) 
4. Recently, a student at school wrote an excellent speech on the importance of the comma. I think she would have really enjoyed this. (via HowStuffWorks)
5. After discussing the word "sup" and it's general overuse (which, naturally, got more intense as soon as I told a room full of 16 year olds I was tired of it) I'd like to believe that this man's point is true. But clearly this author has never received an essay with "r" and "u" (instead of "are" and "you").  (via Time)
6. I've been rocking a range of these desktop wallpapers lately and loving it. (via DesignLoveFest)