Local Exploration: OCT Loft, Shenzhen

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Have you ever thought something about a place or activity, and been sure you were right, before you even went there? For example I knew Vancouver was going to be a beautiful city that I could easily live in before I even stepped foot on the plane. I knew this years before I had visited for the first time.  There’s something about the west coast (of Canada and America) that I am just so drawn to. The vibe? The pace? The scenery? A little bit of all of it I think. And while I’ve never been to the west coast of the United States, I already know I’m going to love them. It's just a fact.

Anyway, this post is not about the west coast of Canada or America. It's about China.  And it's about how I thought I knew something about my life in China before I ever got on the plane. Ever had a time like that? We all have at some point, I’m sure. But have you ever been wrong?  I may have been right about my thoughts on Vancouver, but my pre-China thought and my reality are quite different.  

Let me explain... before moving abroad I had the naive thought that I would be exploring a different part of the city almost every weekend. I was wrong. So very, very wrong.  The truth is, there’s just been so much work to do, or to get caught up on that I have done almost no exploring of the city we live in.

Given that it’s now MAY (holy smokes, where does the time go?), it’s about time I got out there and explored again. So this past Labour Day (which they celebrate May 1), I headed out of doors with a friend to explore the OCT Loft area of Shenzhen.

I had been to this area once before for a jazz festival way back in October and had been immediately taken with the ambiance of the place.  It felt like no other place in China I had been, and it still feels that way.  OCT Loft is an open warehouse/art gallery/boutique shops space that reminds me just enough of home to help curb the home sickness that inevitably creeps up every now and again. But also feels different enough that I'm eager to explore each building and turn in depth.

The afternoon was spent meandering around old buildings, sipping tea and eating cake at outdoor cafes, and oohing and ahhing at all the little bits and bobs we pretended we needed in our lives, but ultimately leaving empty handed because we were able to remind ourselves we didn’t actually need them … for now!

It was such a relaxing and peaceful afternoon that we’ve promised ourselves we’ll attempt at least one return trip before the school year is up. And I’ve promised myself time for a little more exploring!

Hiking Dongchong Beach to Xichong Beach: Testing my strength

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Pretty good view, right? This is on the Dapeng Peninsula outside the city of Shenzhen. And this is what greeted us as we crested the first hill after we began our journey from Dongchong to Xichong beach.  Little did I know that I would want to die a thousand deaths before finishing the 4 hour hike.

Mile 0 - Dongchong Village

At one time there was a bridge here ... it seems to have washed away within the last few months

Before I begin, let me tell you that, yes, I would do the hike again. But this time I would be more prepared for what was to come. This journey was grueling, but gorgeous. The scenery was literally breathtaking (and not just because I was heaving my body up the side of a cliff). It's what you expect the Chinese seaside to look like - rugged, but refined, somehow it just fit.  Unfortunately, after about 2.5 hours in I had reached my limit. I was cursing up and down wishing the slog could be over. I was overheated, exhausted, and tired of jumping from boulder to boulder with an exuberant Chinese person nipping at my heels the whole way.

Trust me, I know how disgruntled I sound right there. And truth be told, I totally was at the time.  The trek was a few times more demanding than expected and being on the coast we were constantly exposed to the elements for the last 3 hours, which is not awesome when it’s 40 degrees outside, and you are required to scale a cliff with nothing but a thin rope and a few sketchy rock holds for your feet/other hand.

It was also a bit like Disney World in July - crawling with people.  Not only did we arrive with our own group of 30, but we were unfortunate enough to catch up with, and somehow maintain pace with, a tour/school/work group of about 200. It's a well trodden trail, but it's often narrow and quite perilous to the point of dangerous in many place (let's just say, this trail would not be open in Canada), which can be quite difficult to navigate with such a large crowd.  But despite all that, when we finally reached Xichong beach several hours later, I was exhausted but exhilarated. As I rested my body in a mixture of sea and sand, I was able to realize how awesome the experience really was.

Not for the faint of heart, this hike is tough. But if you're up for the challenge, it's also very worth it.  Every so often I would look up and out of my heat stroked eyes and get that realization of being just one little human in a gigantic world. The mountains rolled and layered themselves on top of one another and it became an endless sea of forested peaks. On the other side, the pacific stretched out, craggy but calm - true peace.

On a practical note: From our neck of the woods in Shenzhen, Dapeng peninsula should take about 1.5 - 2 hours to reach (if you're interested in getting there by public transit, check out this blog: Where the hell is Rory?).

UPDATE: You can also stay at Xichong beach by renting a cabin, or bringing a tent and staking a claim on the sand.  Xichong is beautiful mixture of white sand and emerald sea.  We spent a weekend here and it was like being transported to another land altogether. If you have the time, stay awhile and enjoy.

I can see the end! Just one the other side of the bay....

In a week from now Other Half and I will be in Sumatra, Indonesia hiking with some Orangutans, so you know, I'm pretty freaking excited about that.  And we may have skyped with our cat last night, so despite that setting me on the track for crazy cat lady, who probably also carries them around in 100 bags, things are going pretty well here on the mainland. Until next time!

Dafen Art Village: Expecting the Unexpected

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I don't think I will ever cease to be amazed by what I see here in China. Sometimes it's great (that sign is telling me I can have 9 dumplings for 4 RMB - roughly 80 cents - ??? sign me up!) Sometimes it's less than great (oh look, that child is using their split pants, I've never seen that before ... you can't erase that, you just can't). Either way, it's a new experience and I can't discredit it for that!

One of the good surprise sites was the Dafen Art Village.  With Shenzhen being so new, it's easy to feel like there is a lack of character about the place, so stumbling into the tiny mishmash of streets that is Dafen Village it was a welcome site to behold.  Surrounded by a Wal-Mart, an elevated metro system, a highway and many highrises, Dafen puts you into a different China.  There is a distinct lack of "new" and a welcome amount of "used" - the Art part of the village itself is actually not that old, but it gives it the character it needed.

For a little history, Dafen Art Village is a reproduction art space. It started in the 1990's with 20 artists and has grown to approximately 5,000 artists and produces anywhere from 60% to 80% of the worlds reproductions (reports vary). Within the village you can find a mixture of reproduction (generally the big classics like Monet and Van Gogh,  and originals of the artists own creation. On a personal note, I'm not sure that I agree with the reproduction aspect, as it seems to take a bit of the art out of it, but as a space that I can wander relatively traffic free and be surrounded by some very impressive works, I'm all for it.

One of my favourite sightings for the day - Obama and Dumbledore, two great men hanging out (get it!?) like it ain't no thang. What I wouldn't give to have these two men in the same room at the same time (not in painting form), oh the conversations!

I was mostly taken with the tiny (like, tiny tiny) alley ways that served as the main display space for many of the artists. It made the area feel a little bit secret and really quite special.

And I cannot finish typing this without mentioning the framing shops.  They were just as intriguing as the art themselves.  I love when people enjoy showcasing the work they do - and they did it well here in Dafen.



Much of the writing you'll see about Shenzhen is all about getting in, getting your knock-off needs and getting out again a.s.a.p. While there is no doubt in the world these people love to shop, it's nice to discover something just a little bit different every now and then.

I've also started treating myself to at least one adventure per week. Last weekend was all about Dafen, and this weekend will have me hiking from Dongchong to Xichong beach and I couldn't me more excited! Stay tuned ...

Checking In

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Hello world! I thought it was about time I checked in to give ya'll a bit of an update on life over here. Coming into this adventure with no real expectations for the city or the job, I can now safely tell you ... it still isn't what I expected.

I reflected a bit already on my initial thoughts of the city, and so far that hasn't changed much. Though we've been here for over 3 weeks, I still haven't had a huge amount of time to explore. I'm working on doing so bit by bit, so hopefully I can show you a bit more of the city soon.

As for the job ... I'm still deciding. I love the variety that teaching provides. Absolutely no two days are the same, and that strongly appeals the routine loathing side of me. And the kids seem pretty cool so far, if not a bit blank stare-y when I try and throw a few jokes around - super awkwardly, of course.  However I'm also pulling 12-14 hour days, 6 days a week with planning and prepping and what-not. Not cool. But I'm optimistic for a turn around (it's only been 7 days after all, and I'm very new to this) and as long as I can get (and stay) ahead of the curve in planning, I think I may be able to keep my sanity and start exploring! Fingers crossed guys, fingers crossed.

On a lighter note, last night brought us to the annual teachers day banquet dinner which included a feast dinner of about 23 courses (I'm not joking), performances by each group in attendance (administration, admissions, teachers, guards, drivers - you name it), and a trip to KTV aka private room karaoke - china style. Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of photo evidence that isn't either a) incriminating to fellow staff members or b) showcasing the school name (something I am not interested in broadcasting - fyi).  However know this - it was a great night filled with a lot of fun, laughter and baijiu shots (local moonshine type disgustingness).

All in all, it's been a great experience so far ... but it definitely feels like just the beginning!

Stay tuned ...

First Impressions: Shenzhen, China

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 I didn’t come to China with much idea of what to expect.  I had attempted some research, but the majority was fairly sparse, and so early on I had adopted the wait-and-see attitude knowing that whatever I read would probably seem different through my eyes anyway … and it was.

For a little background, Shenzhen is a very new city. It was China’s first Special Economic Zone and started as a sleepy fishing village of a couple hundred thousand and has blossomed into a mega-city of 15 million – all in 30 years. It sits on the south coast of mainland China and is a stones throw from Hong Kong.  Though the province is purely Cantonese, the city itself is largely Mandarin speaking due to the fact that almost everyone who lives in Shenzhen is from somewhere else entirely (remember, it’s only 30 years old). This mixture means that while historical culture may be lacking, personal culture is in abundance!

The main expat neighbourhood (not where we live)
with a view of Nanshan Mountain in the background

The following are some first impressions I’ve had - keep in mind I’ve been here five days.

Biggest Surprise: how green the city is. Knowing the city was so new, and how quickly it grew, I expected a lot of concrete, a lot of high-rises, a lot of people, and not much else. There are definitely all of those things, but there are also a lot of (big) parks, tree lined streets, and public gardens. All of the highways are lined with planters and flowers and vines (even the overpasses), giving the effect that a jungle has decided to make it’s home here too.  And best of all, there are a few small mountains dotted around the city that provide an extra dose of awe.

some blurry dinner of spicy green beans, pork/mushroom something and noodle omelette something ... something something.

The Food: Awesome. Whether we've just been lucky, or it really is all this good, I'm not sure but I'm happy.  As a lover of food I've been in heaven for the last few days. Yes there have been some surprises (like the deep-fried chicken feet at lunch today), and you basically order by pointing at pictures on the menu and hope you get something vaguely similar to what you thought, but that's all part of the adventure. So far, so awesome. 

Cool & Refreshing - Cucumber flavour

The Weather: Hot! They weren't joking when they warned us it would be hot because it totally is. Luckily it is a bit better than anticipated due to the fact that southern Ontario is plagued by intense humidity, so I'm at least used to the feeling of always being a little bit sticky (too much information?). Additionally it's a whole lot less rainy than expected as well, which is obviously awesome.  Living in a tropical climate, they have the typical rainy and dry seasons, we are in the rainy season at the moment and have yet to see too much of it.  Naturally, as soon as I post this mother nature will cackle and show me what she's got.

Yes, there is IKEA. Yes, we went.

The People: Smily, and often staring (red, curly hair is not an everyday occurrence here). I haven't interacted with a lot of people (other than other teachers), but so far they are willing to try just as hard at sign language and everything else in order to communicate as I am, so that's a plus. 

All in all it's been awesome so far - we're settling in fairly nicely, we've thoroughly investigated our closest grocery store, we've been to Ikea and we're getting into the swing of daily life (sort of ... classes start next week - eek!).

Until next time!

Adventure Calls: We're moving to China

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We're moving to China. We're moving to China. We're moving to China. I keep telling myself that in hopes that it will actually sink in.  No such luck yet, but none the less it's true, we're moving to China.

Other Half and I both work in education. He is finishing his B.Ed to work in formal school-age education, and I work in informal adult education. Starting in September, we'll both start our first High School teaching jobs in Shenzhen, China.

Why China? Well, there are a lot of answers to that.  I could say it's because the hiring scene here in Ontario for teachers is terrible (it is), or I could say it's because we just want an excuse to travel (no excuses needed here!), but the truth is, adventure was calling. Despite an immense love for life in Toronto and Canada in general, we were both interested in immersing ourselves in another culture, so when the opportunity to move to China came about, we took it.

A lot of people have asked how I'm feeling about it, and I can never quite manage to explain the mix of emotions I have toward this decision. Number one is excitement, without a doubt. I cannot freaking wait to explore the city, the province, the country,  and the region surrounding the country. I cannot wait to meet the teachers and students, and I cannot wait to try out a new (though related) profession. And I especially cannot wait to eat the food.

Number two is sad.  We're leaving behind a lot. We can't bring the cat with us, and she doesn't understand that I'm hugging her so hard and so often because I'm trying to fit in as much cat-love as possible. We're leaving behind family, friends, and various celebrations. Weddings, new babies, big birthdays. Logically I'm aware that we can't always put our own adventures on hold so that we can participate in other people's, but I will still recognize that I wish we could do it all.

Number three is nervous. I'll be teaching high school business studies. On paper this makes sense. I have a Bachelor of Commerce and a Masters in Education. Cool. No biggie. In practice, I'll be doing my own fair share of studying before I step foot in the classroom. Also, what if I don't like it!? I'll like it. I know that I will, but what if?

And finally, number four is impatient. We've known about this move for a few months now, and I've had a lot of time to digest the information.  We have a lot of adventures to complete before we leave in August, but I'm getting impatient. I know it will come and go quickly, but when I say it's constantly on my mind, no truer a word has been written.

This blog was created with this adventure in mind. As a way to document stories and create a space for me to store my memories, because I too often forget. So far, the obvious highlight has been on food (becuase I love it. I love making it and eating it), but as the summer rolls on there will be a slow shift to focus more on the travel side of my life.  I hope you stay with me, because things are about to get really interesting around these parts.